captured and caught – Part III

This post is part of a series:

Captured Picot VersionA: captured in many ways - Part I

Captured Picot VersionB: captured in a twist - Part II

Adjoining Captured Picots and Captured Join: this post (captured and caught - Part III)

Triple and Quadruple Captured Picot: next post (captured in Pairs - Part IV)

Continuing from previous post. 

Every effect shown here in rings can be applied in chains too.

Adjoining Captured Picots

In this ring the second picot is captured by the first, then the third picot is captured by the second, etc. The Captured Picots are tatted in the same way shown in VersionA, and the steps (pics 2 to 6 in the blogpost for VersionA) are repeated after each long picot. That is (following stitch count in the pic above): 

1 - Start with 4 ds, then first long picot and one ds. For the Lizbeth size 10, I used a gauge of 1/2”, vertically.

2 - Pull up a loop from the front through the first long picot, put your fingers inside that loop (pics 2 and 3 in VersionA) and tat 3ds with the thread coming from the loop

3 - Then, open again the main loop of the ring, put your hand inside it and the working thread will be “captured” by the first long picot. 

4 – Leave a second long picot and tat 1ds

5 - Pull up a loop from the front through the second long picot, put your fingers inside that loop and tat 3ds with the thread coming from the loop

6 - Then, open again the main loop of the ring, put your hand inside it and the working thread will be “captured” by the second long picot.

7 – Leave a third long picot and tat 1ds

8 - Pull up a loop from the front through the third long picot, put your fingers inside that loop and tat 3ds with the thread coming from the loop

9 - Then, open again the main loop of the ring, put your hand inside it and the working thread will be “captured” by the third long picot.

10 – Leave a fourth long picot and tat 1ds

… Etcetera. If you like, it can be continued. Complete the ring (after the 4th picot I tatted 4 ds and closed the ring). 

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The picots in the “adjoining capture” can have different lengths, it’s not mandatory to make them all with the same gauge! And they can combine up and down overlappings - this variety can create some different effects, for example in next pic:

In this ring, tatted using Lizbeth size 10, the 1st picot is a medium length picot (1/4” used vertically), the 2nd is a long picot (1/2” used vertically), and 3rd is a medium length picot (1/4” used vertically). The “Capture” was tatted as shown in VersionA, and the first capture was made pulling up the loop from the front through the first picot, while the second capture was made pulling down the loop from the back through the second picot.

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Captured Join 

A technique similar to the Captured Picot can be used for joining.
In the next pic, the first pink ring is 6-3--3.

In the second pink ring, you see what I call “Captured Up Join”:

1 - Start with 3ds, then pull up a loop from the front through the long picot of previous ring to be joined.

2 - Put your fingers inside that loop, leave a first measured picot (1/4” used vertically, for the Lizbeth size 10),

3 - tat 3ds with the thread coming from the loop.

4 - Then open again the main loop of the ring, put your hand again inside it and 

5 - leave a second measured picot (same size in this sample) and complete the ring. I tatted 9ds and closed it.

Note: in step 1. if you pull the loop down from the back, then it will be called a “Captured Down Join” (I haven’t a pic)

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This is the same Captured Up Join, but I joined back to a previous long picot in the same element, and also the third picot is the same length of the first one. Nice effect, isn’t it? 

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From now on, I’ll use the abbreviations:  CP = Captured Picot; CJ = Captured Join

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In how many ways can I join to a CP? I made some experiments, and I feel that my list can grow. Till now I have 3 nice types of joins:

Types of joins

pic 1 - I tatted first the pink ring with CP, and later I joined the seagreen rings with normal up join in both picots.

pic 2 – I tatted first the pink ring with CP, and later I joined the seagreen ring with normal join to first long picot, 1ds, normal join to second long picot.

pic 3 – I tatted first the pink ring with CP, and later I tatted the seagreen ring with Captured Join, taking the loop in the space where the pink CP is crossing. The long picots show off the effect very well.

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Mixing captures

The next is another effect, in fact I tatted first the pink ring with a normal long picot. Then, I tatted the seagreen ring with two picots which join to the same pink picot, and the second of them is “captured”:

I combined CJ with CP (VersionA) - that is, in the seagreen ring, when you want to join: 

1- pull up a loop from the front through the pink picot to be joined (CJ), then - working with this loop,

2- start a CP VersionA (from pic 2 in the tutorial), that is: first long picot, then tat 1ds, then pull a loop through the first picot, etc.etc.

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If the CP captured your interest, if your threads aren’t caught on your fingers and if I haven’t bored you yet, maybe you are willing to read the last post in this series, so… see you soon!

Ciao, 

Ninetta.