Dear Reader,
I share here what I like and what works for me. If you've been following me, you know that I can change my mind from time to time, and feel free to comment that I'm completely wrong, you may be right. I'm not running a business. I'm not paid and have never received any compensation or facilitation for any review/brand/site here mentioned. In case one day we'll ever meet, I'll be the one offering you a cup of Italian coffee, too.

Tuesday, 5 November 2019

a matter of joints

... but nothing related to articulation, here.

After playing for one month with it, I haven't changed my mind about the tatted beaded rope: there isn't only one technique to obtain it and each method can be used to create many different patterns. In fact, it's a type of tatting, it uses tatting techniques, you can obtain many textures and effects just changing the stitches' count or the position of beads, the joint method, the way you tat (clockwise or counterclockwise). Also, the beading pattern needs a diagram, that must be provided besides the stitches' count.

I'm quite sure you didn't miss that I'm not sharing clear&complete patterns, I'm just collecting my personal notes and samples.

Among the many methods that you can choose to join, there's also the Dora Young join (it's showed in her book "All new knotless tatting designs", published in 1974 but recently reprinted - I've the last). Every time I open that book, I find it more interesting than before, that's true!

You can find online how to do it, reading these two pages by Jane Eborall: (ok, that's for the split chain but the DYJ is quite that)
Or watching this video by Karen Cabrera: Lesson 69

In the following pic, the rope is tatted with only one shuttle, loaded with beads, every each 3 beads I joined with the DYJ. I started with a ring, 3 picots separated by 4ds, then started sliding 3 beads and joining to the first picot. The spiralling effect is created by both the beads and the double stitches in the pattern. I have joined always on the left side of the group of beads. The amazing thing is that it is a one-shuttle's pattern but I tatted only one ring as a starting point, the rest is just a matter of joints. Only Dora Young could have made such thing possible, one shuttle and no rings...
Beads are aligned horizontally, any beading loom pattern can be used to create a texture, just load beads on the shuttle's thread, for example using the same beading diagram I used for the Demmer's rope (

Another way to join is the lock join: another name for this is "shuttle join" and that is how you can find it mentioned in old books, like in Priscilla's. For example, it is used in the classic "snake chain" pattern (even if many tatters join the turns with the ball thread).

When Elisabetta De Napoli shared her tatted beaded rope in Facebook, she was so kind to share her pattern and let me share it here, too. That is what she wrote:
Work with shuttle and ball. All beads are loaded on the ball thread.
Start with a ring of 4 picots separated by 3ds; then continue with chains with the same stitches' count (that is 3ds),  then lock join to picot (same as if you were tatting onion rings with outer as a chain), then slide a bead. Repeat all around, for all 4 picots, then lock join at the base, slide a bead and repeat, joining at beaded picots of previous round.

The effect is different from the method showed in the video by K.Cabrera here: In fact, in that method the join was chosen among those that lets the core thread free to slide, like the slop'n'roll.

My samples from Elisabetta's pattern are a little different, because I used different beads, also I tatted 4ds between each bead (instead of 3ds):

((Update: this is the same technique used in this video by Karen Cabrera:
Lesson 183 - Sphere - ))


Then, I thought to use the same lock join method, but with more beads in picots.

The next is with 6 beads on each picot (loose, in order to lock join in the middle in following row) :

The next is a continuous chain, each round has a different number of beads in their picots, and I also tried a sort of beading pattern, just to see how it would have looked:

Stringing beads for that, it wasn't easy: each picot has beads that can play a role in different rounds of the beading pattern, I had to draw that, to help me to visualise how it goes:

In the next pattern, each blank space is a white bead, for the red dots I used the brown beads. Only the ball thread is loaded (SH2 in the diagram) and only the string for the first and second rows is showed on the right.


Tuesday, 29 October 2019

Roberta was her name

Roberta (Bobbie) Demmer invented a technique to tat a 3-dimensional shape, using only chains. The same technique has been popularised by Gary and Randy Houtz thanks to one of their pattern's book ( According to what I learned in Jane Eborall's page, the Demmer's bobble (or bauble) was invented in 1996.

I was very confused about the English terminology (the two terms bobble and bauble are both used by tatters), then I had an enlightening comment by J.Connors who cleared that, actually,... they mean the same thing! Phew!

Even though the population of mice kept growing on this site:, I wasn't sufficiently attracted to try it, till a couple of weeks ago... In fact, that is when the challenge in "tatting a beaded rope" started.

But first, I needed to learn the basis.
The two primary source that worked for me are:

I learned that the technique is one, but the result looks different, depending if you tat with the starting ring away from you or toward you (or, in other words, if you tat the bauble clockwise or counter-clockwise):
The following two samples of mine are tatted with the same stitches' count and the same number of "sbt" (that means "stabilising thread"): 4 double stitches between 4 sbt.
The effect is very different, you see my samples in next pic, the yellow is tatted with the starting ring toward you, the red is tatted with the starting ring away from you:
For trying the "Demmer's" tatting beaded rope, I thought that the red one was the best, more stable and compact.

Sigh! I had trouble getting the beads nicely placed! That was because I wanted them put in column (there's more than one possibility to stack beads! Note to myself: try to vary the stitches' count between beads).

The rounded shape of my beads and the height of the double stitches, at first, didn't get along.

I used rocailles glass beads 9/0 and DMC Cebelia size 10. The beads in columns, put on picots, have their rounded side close to each other and they slip a lot.

In fact, when you put a bead on the picot, the bead has the hole aligned with the picot's thread. That is a problem when stacking beaded chains, tatting it becomes very cumbersome. This is my drawing for a bead on a picot.
So, they always say, new problems lead to new solutions.
Eventually I found a way to "twist" the beads so that they can be easily stacked.

I load beads on the ball thread and slide them on the picot, as usual. But after the first half stitch (picture1), I move the ball thread from right to left, in front of the bead, so that the picot thread is  behind the bead (picture 2). Then I tat the second half stitch (picture3).
That makes the trick:
I'm calling this way: the bead "face-up" on picot. I hope that another drawing can help.
And here it is a picture with the "normal way" (on the right) and the beads "face-up" on picots (on the left):

The beads put in that position make the rope easy to tat, because they are stacked in column on their flat face.

For the tatting beaded rope in the first picture, I used a loom beading pattern, with 12 beads in each round, 4 sbt, the pattern is just a long line of one bead "face-up" on picot, then one double stitch, then repeat forever (or till you fall asleep). Dotted lines in my drawing are where I chose to insert the 4 sbt. All beads are loaded on the ball thread (named SH2 in the drawing).


Demmer's bobble is a very original and clever technique, the outcome of a nonconformist mind.

Roberta is also the name of a dear friend of mine, we met in our twenties and we are still in touch, even if we live very far from each other. She's been always nonconformist, a free spirit. Now I think the name has something to do with it.


How many other different techniques are there for tatting a beaded rope? I'll tell you in a week...


Tuesday, 22 October 2019

the contemporary rope by Rhoda

The book "Tatting" by Rhoda Auld might just be the best book I've bought. It's from 1974 but very modern, contemporary, like promised in the subtitle: "the contemporary art of knotting with a shuttle".

Among a galore of techniques, there's "the bobble" that Rhoda Auld invented.

The technique is a clever way to stack rings to create a tube. They are only normal rings, but her original method, that uses two shuttles, makes the technique very interesting. I can see many possibilities to use it in new designs 💡💡💡. At page 40 of the book there's a beautiful butterfly (I absolutely love butterflies 😍) with the body formed by the bobble of rings. (The butterfly is really a piece of art, tatted with different threads: "nylon stitching twine, heavy silk, pearl cotton and copper wire".)

I thought that also the Auld's bobble technique can be used to tat the "tatting beaded rope". And actually, it works!

The technique is well explained in the book, so I hadn't difficulties in reproducing it. Two shuttles are required.
I started with a ring with a short picot in the middle, yellow shuttle. Then I passed the second shuttle's thread (red) through the picot and started the second ring in that point (pics 1 and 2). In the middle of the second ring, I passed the first shuttle's thread between double stitches, no gap (that is no picot), and continued. I closed the red ring, then pulled the yellow thread to put the first ring near to the second. Then I turned the work upside down, switched shuttles and repeated. It turned out a nice coloured rope.

The beaded rope, well, that wasn't easy. The difficult part was recreating the spiral effect with beads, that needed to be shifted in each ring. Moreover, the rings are stacked so that one is upside down from the previous, that is "if we think of rings as fish" (thanks Muskaan!) the tails of two consecutive rings are at opposite ends.
After many trials, eventually I understood two things:
  1. beads in each ring have to be an even number, so that the Auld's join between rings falls on the middle and rings are well stacked.
  2. it can be used a simple loom beading pattern. I loaded on one shuttle all beads needed for odd rows and on the second shuttle all beads for even rows, but the beads on the second shuttle must be loaded in this way: divide the number of beads of the row in two parts, then load first the second part and then the first part.

For the sample in the first picture, I followed this pattern:
Beads are red, black and white. Blanks are white beads.
Greyed rows are meant to be loaded on shuttle SH1. In the pic I showed only how to load the first six rows, starting from the up. The green bar in even rows is where I started loading beads on SH2, that is for example the second row: 2 red beads, 2 white, then 1 black and 3 white.
Each ring in the first picture has 8 beads. Thread is polyester by Edda Guastalla's "Fili & gioielli chiacchierino" (S.Master 30, AR4 rosso-giallo). Here you are my sample for the beaded rope:

R0, R1, R2, etc.. are normal rings.
- = picot
Θ = Rhoda Auld's method to join stacked rings, as showed in previous collage, pics 2 and 3.
B = bead.
The beginning ring is away from the tatter.

After all beads are loaded on the shuttles, start in this way:

R0 with SH2: 12-12 (small picot)
R1 with SH1: 1 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 1 Θ 1 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 1;  close ring. Turn work upside down.
R2 with SH2 (leave a short bare thread space): same as R1.
R3 with SH1 (leave a short bare thread space): same as R1.
Continue for the desired length, alternating rings with SH1 and SH2.

I bought the book last year, but I'm still in the phase of staring at pictures 🤩.
Just looking at the cover you get an idea of the avant-garde tatter who wrote it.

My copy smells naphthalene, it's a second hand lucky find on ebay, hard cover, great conditions, quite cheap, but I must confess that it took me a couple of months before I opened it, for the terrible odour.
But then, wow!!! I always put thumb and index fingers on my nose and leaf through it 😊. There are many techniques, ideas and designs that, during the last decade, since I started looking for the word "tatting" online, I've found in various sites. Still, there's more to try!

I need time to read it, twice for me is not enough, sigh.

Link to the book review by M. Leigh Martin:

In the next post: more on bobble (or bauble!) tatting.

Tuesday, 15 October 2019

how to drive me tats

Last week I shared a method for stacking normal rings, with a twisted effect, that is obtained by shifting beads a few double stitches each ring and by the use of the down join.

Sue (God's Kid: suggested that, adding more beads, we could make tatted versions of bracelets similar to Jane McLellan's crocheted beaded bracelets.
Of course, many trials and errors and many neurons will burn before getting something nearly looking like this:

Well, the title here gives you a rough idea of the current situation here, especially after that I invited my friends in Facebook to play with me the "tatted beaded rope" game!

Muskaan already joined the game (, and also Elisabetta De Napoli (she has a Facebook's profile) who shared a picture with her lovely version. I hope there will be someone else! Will you let me drive alone?

At first I tried to play with normal rings, all stacked. I thought I could have used only one joint. But, I had to join in every beaded picot, otherwise the spiral opens, showing the twisted effect of the pattern that is in previous post. (Note to myself: That is another nice effect, to be tried again later.)

Another problem are beads: I shuttle tat, then all beads must be loaded in the only one shuttle required to tat the all-rings pattern. Minimum 4 rings for each ring. They are a lot! (I like having them handy on the thread, instead of putting them on picots.)

Then, because I just wanted to try a version with rings, I switched to mock rings (they're the rings normally tatted by needle tatters): in this case I need to load almost all beads on the ball thread.

The idea  is similar to previous "stacked development" bracelet, but with mock rings.
I loaded some beads in the shuttle, and then put one in the loop needed for the mock ring:
Here you are, quite a pattern:

Start with a normal ring, as in previous pattern: 8ds, bead on picot (hang loose), 8ds, close.
Mock rings: 1ds, bead on picot (hang loose), 1ds, down join in previous ring, 1ds (((... repeat 1ds, join,1ds, after each bead... ))); end with a down join and 1ds, plus one first half stitch.
Each mock ring in my example in the picture has 8 beads in the ball thread and one in the shuttle loop.

When closing the mock ring, pay attention to the position of the bead in the loop, that need to be positioned on the outside part of the rope.

When joining, turn previous ring counterclockwise, on the back of current ring (the beginning ring is away from the tatter). I used the down join showed in the video shared last week, for stacked rings.

Actually, I'm sharing the method that is the application of a technique, not a real pattern. Be creative and tat your own version! 🥰👍


My general thoughts about tatted beaded rope:

- there isn't only one technique to obtain the rope;
- stacked rings (or chains) are not a "new thing" in tatting;
- each method can lead to many different patterns (just change stitches' count, number of beads, position of beads,...);
- how to join, it counts;
- how you tat, it can change how you join (if you take your tatting with the beginning away from you or toward you);
- how you load beads will change the pattern (on the ball thread, on the shuttle, over picot), take you to different patterns.

That's not all folks and that is sufficient to drive every tatter "nuts"!

In next posts I will show the rest of my journey, that has been leading me to learn old and new techniques, and that really is making me crazy!


Tuesday, 8 October 2019

stacked development

They're just stacked rings, one ring above the previous, but I've used "down joins".

If you think that a join is just a join, that's the moment to read Muskaan's blog post (but don't forget to come back here, lol!):

This is a one-shuttle pattern, only rings. Basically, all rings are 8, bead, 3+8.

I always feel concerned when I come up with such simple effects, worrying about having re-invented that famous wheel, that one already invented by another tatter. (A very similar spiralling effect is in the trunk pattern by Muskaan, but tatted with split rings, here: (Another very similar by MiKyeong Ha, but tatted with chains, here:

In any case, I found this pattern by myself, not fast though. Now I need to find a fast way to recover beads.
I tatted a length sufficient for a bracelet. The spiral development emerged only when I loaded beads in two colours.
Thread is dmc Diamant 100% polyester, D5200. I've tried with cotton, with Finca gold (two strands) and with Combi 0.4 and Penny 20 by "Fili & Gioielli a chiacchierino", they're all good, too.

Pattern (only one shuttle and beads):
Beads are all pre-loaded, I've used a mix of 11/0 and 9/0, but I've lost the brand's label.
For the spiral effect, load beads alternating colours and finish with 2 beads of the same colour.

ds = double stitch.
B = bead on picot
vsp = very small picot
down join = pull a loop through the picot, down from front to back
Rings are numbered, that is R1 is the first ring, R2 the second, etc.

Important: beads should hang loose on picots, then when putting any bead on picot, the picot is wider than the bead size.

Ring1 : put 1 bead in the loop around the hand;  8ds, B, 8ds. Close ring.

Ring2 : put 2 beads in the loop around the hand;  8ds, B, 3ds, turn previous ring counterclockwise, on the back of current ring, then make a down join (to the beaded picot, previous ring), then 8ds. Finish with an additional first half stitch. Close ring (the second bead is trapped at the base).

Ring3 and every next rings : equal to Ring2
Repeat rings for the entire length of the bracelet.

End with a curled ring:
Curled Ring : 8ds, vsp, 8ds. Fold around previous ring, from back to front, normal join.
I tatted about 70 rings, then tatted the curled ring.

I've shared a video in my YouTube channel. This is the link:
Thank you for watching.

Have I discovered the wheel again? Maybe, but I enjoy the game!


Tuesday, 1 October 2019


Last week I was almost ready to play on another pattern of mine, a new lanyard, that I hope to share soon, oh well... if I don't get distracted again!

The first distraction came from Muskaan. I really enjoyed tatting her pattern! It was fun, like a tat-along, because she engaged me and Anita Spotz Barry in modifying the original 8 arms pattern to obtain a snowflake. She called it "mutant snowflake", read the full story in her blog

Thread is size 80 Dmc Special Dentelles, colours numbers are 740(orange) and 90(multicoloured yellow).

The next distraction came from the local association which I belong to. From the 26th to 29th of September it is our patron saint's festival. We joined other associations (musicians, poets, comedians) and worked in public, with our bobbin laces, netting, macrame and tatting, free teaching for curious passers-by. That was the original plan... but another Great Incredible Distraction came to the event in my city, interrupting her short holiday in Rome!! 😱😱😱 Wow! I still can't believe that Karen Cabrera was here, even if for few moments!! I'm extremely bad at speaking in English, but she is sweet and she's also learning Italian (lucky me 😅). 💓Thank you Karen for this unbelievable nice surprise! 😍You made my... year!😍

The last two distractions of the week are 2 new purchases. A book: "Illusion of 3-D in Split Ring Tatting", by Karen Bovard, and two shuttles decorated by "Dalì L'artista", her name is Lina and has a profile in Facebook ( She doesn't decorates many shuttles, only few each time, but she's nice and always try and satisfy who asks for them.
I will soon try something from the book.


Tuesday, 24 September 2019

1936 motif

The pattern for that motif can be found in Georgia Seitz's site, from 2005 online classes. It is from "Imported Designs of Tatting Book #77 The Spool Cotton Co. ©1936". She talked about the booklet from 1936 in her article here:

Direct link to pattern, written by Mimi Dillman:
Many thanks to Mimi Dillman for sharing her instructions for the pattern with us 🥰.

It's a very beautiful motif, and colours are lovely on jeans. Thread is "combi 0.4", "mandarino" (orange) and "cacao" (brown),by "Fili &Gioielli a chiacchierino", from Edda Guastalla's shop.

It's been a pleasure to tat, especially because I read her working notes in her pdf.
But I didn't change the stitches' count for the larger rings and I chose to start at one large ring, because I don't often tat clunies and I actually was worrying how to hide ends inside the cluny leaf.
Also, I added one wrap to clunies, it worked great for my hand and with that thread.
Edda's thread is smooth and I think that it was the reason why tatting the leaves went like a breeze 👍🥰.

Then, I followed a great tip from Muskaan (, that one that she calls "ONE SMALL STEP". She also shared in her blog something about how to hide ends in the leaf. I should have refreshed her full series of posts before tatting this motif, a good reminder for me for re-tatting it!

Just a curiosity, 1936 is also the foundation year of my native city.


Tuesday, 17 September 2019

thumb sized pillow

At last! I've started decorating a box for making the dollhouse's bedroom, I had already finished the bedspread ( and the toilette (, then I needed only one pillow, something to put into the wardrobe, curtain and drapes. And the help of a friend 😉

That's the pillow. Thread is DMC Spécial Dentelles Size 80, colour number is 397 Pale mauve.
Tassels are made with the same thread and then sewed at corners. I designed the square pattern including curled rings and treble tatting stitches.

It is about 4x4 cm, about the half of a thumb size (length), according to what I've just discovered, googling "what is the size of an average thumb". It's incredible how many things you can find googling, but then, who can question that? I can measure just my own, it's not convenient going around measuring thumbs 😕

I haven't decided yet how to set the bedroom.

And now, my stitches' count, sorry that's a little tricky to read, but actually put numbers on a picture is a lot far easy and fast than preparing a tidy drawing... I hope you'll like it anyway and forgive my laziness... 🙇

The CR (= Curled Ring) is joined using the hidden picot in the middle (I joined it and the picot of the  chain together, to block the CR in its position), that is between the second and the third tds.
Those rings in the outer round are normally joined, you tat the second one in the corner and join previous ring in its vsp, just after the 5tds, before tatting the 10 double stitches.

Please refer to the page  "Treble Tatting Stitch - Summary" for any info about treble tatting stitches, thank you.


Tuesday, 10 September 2019

trebles in curled rings - mad mad snowflake

That is my "mad mad snowflake", if you have time to read you'll know why, otherwise have fun with pictures (especially the last one)!

A treble tatting stitch can be used in any tatting element, grant that you have the pattern! Otherwise you should have to write your own...
Thread is DMC Spécial Dentelles Size 80, colour numbers are 701 green and orange 740.

I designed this little motif to see how curled rings could work when you have treble tatting stitches in the ring.
Initially, my idea was to tat a curled ring with all tds, but actually the back of the CR is not visible on the front, so it's been sufficient tatting trebles on the half visible side! Except if you like the treble stitches showing off on the back, too. That is the third attempt at the pattern, the first one had 2 rounds with all trebles in curled rings, then I told myself that was a mad mad snowflake...
Just to mention, in curled rings you need a very small picot to fold it, that can be in any place it depends on the pattern. In the case of tds, any of the hidden picots can be used to fold the curled ring.

But then I added a little madness more.

I've also tried a technique showed in a Japanese site, but actually it is the same as the monster (or "wide") picots, just used there in order to have a better front appearance when tatting a double picot. Of course it shows like a charm with thick thread, but it is a madness (and worthless!) with my tiny size 80 thread!
So why? There's moments when you just have your shuttles loaded and a voice says "what if", how can you resist?
The technique was showed in a blog by a tatter that the automatic translation introduces you as "Hello, this is YuiYui", that sounds like a very sweet name. It's a great thing that we have automatic translation but I wish I  had found a name and surname to tell you. The link where you can find the technique is this one:

Thanks YuiYui, that was really fun to tat 🤗 !!

Here it is my stitches' count, for anyone who's willing to tat my mad mad little snowflake:
WP = monster (or wide) picot 
The CR (= Curled Ring) is joined using the hidden picot in the middle (I joined it and the picot of the green chain together, to block the CR in its position), that is between the second and the third tds.

Please refer to the page  "Treble Tatting Stitch - Summary" for any info about treble tatting stitches, thank you.

Happy tatting!


Tuesday, 3 September 2019

giggly earrings

After the bracelet of previous post, I went on playing with rings and chains and found other ways to interlace them to obtain nice effects.

For the earrings that are in the last picture of this post, I tatted few rings with only one shuttle, with beads in between:
I used beads instead of chains because I like them more than simple chains in a pair of earrings, they look fresh and fun.

Thread is Penny 20 by Fili &Gioielli a chiacchierino, from Edda Guastalla's shop, it is like a cotton size 20.

Pattern (only one shuttle and beads):
Beads are pre-loaded, I've used a mix of miyuki 11/0 and rocailles 15/0
ds = double stitch.
Start with ring G in next picture. Rings are named with letters in reverse order because that way it will be easier to explain during the interlacing steps.

Ring G: 8ds
Chain: 12ds
Ring F: 30ds
---Slide 21 beads
Ring E: 26ds
---Slide 31 beads 
Ring D: 22ds
---Slide 41 beads 
Ring C: 18ds
---Slide 51 beads 
Ring B: 14ds
---Slide 61 beads 
Ring A: 14ds, tie and cut thread.

How to interlace:

1. Pass B throughout A

2. Pass C throughout A
3. then pass B throughout C

4. Pass D throughout A
5. Pass both C&B throughout D

6. Pass E throughout A
7. Pass D&C&B throughout E
8. Pass F throughout A
9. Pass E&D&C&B throughout F
Then you need to block everything with the last chain and ring. That is:

10. Pass G inside and from front to back under F. Reverse the work and pull G throughout all loops with beads
11. Block together rings A and G (I've used a french hook).

Enjoy your new earrings!

🌸🌸🌸 Before I left, just an extra giggle from my side... I tried many versions before the one shared here, I couldn't find the right stitches' count at the first try, neither the right number of beads. Then I found that the odd number of beads (21,31, etc.) fits good for the dangling effect and the even number of ds (30,26,22...) worked well for rings... That was one of those funny moments, when what you needed was only a coffee break... ☕☕☕


Tuesday, 27 August 2019

russian inspired bracelets

There's a song by Aretha Franklin entitled "chain of fools", I love the refrain when they repeat "chain chain chain"... That's what I was singing while tatting these bracelets 🥰

The idea came up after I tatted another bracelet, following a video by Svetlana Borovik, a Russian tatter, here it is the link:

And in the next picture there is my version:
Thread is HWT (coloured silk wounded together with Finca metallic gold colour 0006 n.2/C), it is like a cotton size 10, then I sewed agate on it. I like it a lot, thank you Svetlana! 🥰🥰🥰

Back to the point, I was playing with that pattern, when I found by chance the lovely chainmail effect.

That is, the trick is only in the ring&chain lanyard and how it is interlaced after that you have the tatting done. That's the lesson I learnt from Svetlana's Master Class.

It is very very easy!!! I haven't copied the pattern for these bracelets, it is my original idea and if - it could happen - someone tatted this pattern before, I would not be surprised, because it is very basic, a pattern for beginners 😍!

The basic idea behind all versions of my bracelet it is only a line of rings and chains, with no picots nor joins.

》》》》》I tatted a line of rings with 20 ds and chains 20 ds each. Start with a ring, then you have just to make a line of chains and rings all the same, then a last chain and make all the interlacing. At the end, tat one curled ring to block the last two rings.《《《《《

But it can be a one-shuttle pattern, too!
You should put beads in place of the chains.
In the next pic there are 20 rocaille beads 15/0 between each ring, tatted with a thread comparable to a cotton size 50 (it is S Master 30 by Fili &Gioielli a chiacchierino, from Edda Guastalla's shop):

How to interlace:

Follow the pictures:
  • put B over A, 
  • pass C throughout both A and B from back to front, 
  • pull C and 
  • rename that last ring as in bottom-left pic and repeat.
I tatted 30 rings and finished with one bead in the bare thread, then tatted one curled ring (that is C in next picture), that is: 10ds, very small picot, 10ds.
That last CR (="curled ring") joined together the last 2 rings (A and B in next picture).

Another way to interlace is using just 2 rings, like in next picture: 
Follow the pictures:
  • put B over A, 
  • pass B throughout A from back to front, 
  • pull B and 
  • rename that last ring as in bottom-right pic and repeat.
Finish as in previous method, with a CR.

These are my "Russian inspired bracelets", pattern is after each picture. Add or remove one or more ring&chain to fit your wrist's size.
ds = double stitch;
fhs= first half stitch;
shs = second half stitch;
vsp = very small picot;
CR = curled ring.

Thread S Master 30 by Fili &Gioielli a chiacchierino, from Edda Guastalla's shop, it is like a cotton size 50. One shuttle and ball (or two shuttles).
Start with a ring.
(*) Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds; (**)
Repeat from (*) to (**) 26 times;
Chain 10ds; don't cut the thread.
Then interlace using the FIRST METHOD, at the end tat a CR: 10ds,vsp,10ds (curl around the last 2 rings). Cut and hide ends.

Thread is Finca metallic gold colour 0006 n.2/C, doubled, it is like a cotton size 20. Beads are rocailles 11/0 all loaded on the core shuttle. One shuttle and ball (or two shuttles).
Start with a ring.

Ring: 20ds; Chains: 20ds;
Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds;
(*) Ring: 20ds; Chain: 10ds;
Continue the chain in this way: Slide one bead on the core thread and tat 1 fhs, then slide another bead and tat 1 shs; Repeat for a total of 8 beads (that is: bead, 1fhs, bead, 1shs, bead, 1fhs, bead, 1shs, bead, 1fhs, bead, 1shs, bead, 1fhs, bead, 1shs).
Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds; (**)
Repeat 12 times from (*) to (**).
Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds; don't cut the thread.
Then interlace using the FIRST METHOD, at the end tat a CR: 10ds,vsp,10ds (curl around the last ring). Cut and hide ends.

Thread S Master 30 by Fili &Gioielli a chiacchierino, from Edda Guastalla's shop, it is like a cotton size 50. One shuttle and ball (or two shuttles).
Start with a ring.
(*) Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds;(**)
Repeat 20 times from (*) to (**).
Ring: 20ds;
Tat a last chain of 10ds; don't cut the thread.
Then interlace using the SECOND METHOD, at the end tat a CR: 10ds,vsp,10ds (curl around the last ring). Cut and hide ends.

Thread is DMC metallic AR-CL 100% polyester, it is like a cotton size 70. Beads are hematite stones. One shuttle and ball (or two shuttles).
Start with a ring.
Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds;
Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds;
(*) Ring: put a bead in the loop for the ring, 20ds, close (the bead will be trapped at the base); 
Chain: 20ds;(**)
Repeat 20 times from (*) to (**).
Ring: 20ds;
Tat a last chain of 10ds; don't cut the thread.
Then interlace using the SECOND METHOD, at the end tat a CR: 10ds,vsp,10ds (curl around the last ring). Cut and hide ends.

Thread is Finca metallic gold colour 0006 n.2/C, doubled, it is like a cotton size 20. Beads are miyuki delica seed beads 11/0 all loaded on shuttle. Only one shuttle.
Start with a ring. Leave a short tail (only 25cm) to finger tat one chain.

Ring: 20ds; Chain: 20ds; hide the chain's end.
(*) Ring: 20ds; close ring; slide 18 beads (**)
Repeat 16 times from (*) to (**).
Ring: 20ds;
Slide 10 beads.
Then interlace using the SECOND METHOD, at the end tat a CR: 10ds,vsp,10ds (curl around the last ring). Cut and hide end.


Thank you very much for all your nice comments.