Dear Reader,
I share here what I like and what works for me. If you've been following me, you know that I can change my mind from time to time, and feel free to comment that I'm completely wrong, you may be right. I'm not running a business. I'm not paid and have never received any compensation or facilitation for any review/brand/site here mentioned. In case one day we'll ever meet, I'll be the one offering you a cup of Italian coffee, too.

Tuesday, 31 March 2020

game over

Daniela Mendola's design, thread is Lizbeth size 80, colour number 122. For the last round I had almost finished that thread and then I tatted all rings with DMC lavender (I think it is color number 210 or 397, I lost the label).
Thanks for the fun, Daniela!
She shared her pattern row by row in her blog:


Tuesday, 24 March 2020


Pattern is called "Boutonniere", it's the number 2630-B, at page 10 of "Tatting" Clark’s O.N.T. Book #183 (1942).

Thread is Lizbeth size 80, colour number 154.
I used two shuttles.
I had troubles at the second layer, probably because my tatting is very tight. Then I solved extending all chains in second and third layers, from 8ds to 12. Another thing that I did  - and that wasn't clear to me at first - is that I joined all center rings in those layers to their preceding ring.

In the next, I copied the original pattern.

🌸🌸🌸🌸 ORIGINAL PATTERN 🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸
Boutonniere - No. 2630-B
size 30.
1 ball is sufficient for several boutonnieres.
Use shuttle and ball of thread.

CENTER . . . 1st rnd: R of 4 ds, p, 3 ds, 5 p's sep. by 2 ds, 3 ds, p, 4 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 1 ds, 3 p's sep. by 1 ds, 1 ds. Rw, r of 4 ds, join to adjacent p of previous r, 3 ds, 5 p's sep. by 2 ds, 3 ds, p, 4 ds, cl. Repeat from * until there are 6 r's joining last p of last r to corresponding p of 1st r, and last ch to base of 1st r. Tie and cut. 2nd rnd: Fasten threads to center p of any r. * Ch of 2 ds, 4 p's sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds, join to center p of next r. Repeat from * around. Tie and cut.

FIRST LAYER ... 1st rnd: R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of 3-p ch of 1st rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 6 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 6 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, join to corresponding p of adjacent r, 3 ds, join to center p of next ch of 1st rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Repeat from * around, joining last ch to base of 1st r. Tie and cut. 2nd rnd: R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of any free r of previous rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of adjacent r
on same rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of next free r of previous rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-8 to base of 1st r. Tie and cut.

SECOND LAYER ... 1st rnd: * R of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 8 ds. Rw. Repeat from * around until there are 12 r's joining last ch to base of 1st r [here I added: join each last picot of inner rings to last picot of previous inner ring and also last inner ring to first inner ring]. 2nd rnd: Same as 2nd rnd of 1st layer, joining to alternate r's of 1st rnd (6 points) [here I changed all chains to 12ds]

THIRD LAYER ... 1st rnd: Same as 1st ind of 2nd layer until there are 24 r's, joining last ch to base of 1st r. 2nd rnd: Same as 2nd rnd of 1st layer, joining to alternate r's of 1st rnd (12 points). Sew 2nd and 3rd layers underneath 1st layer, having points alternate.



Tuesday, 17 March 2020

square medallion In leaf design

Anne Orr's pattern. It is from J&P Coats Crochet, Cross Stitch & Tatting Book #14, 1923. Courtesy by Georgia Seitz, this publication is available here:
Tatting is at pages 7 and 8.

Note that the term “split ring” is never mentioned, the author indicates to tat a ring, then there is the “R st” that is “take work off from hand (reverse) turn over, put work on hand”... then, with the shuttle number 2, make the other side of the ring with the reverse stitches, that are not flipped.

I ONLY CHANGED HOW THE STEM IS DONE. Where original instructions say “...with a crochet needle, make five stitches around the three threads for stem...”, I substituted crochet stitches with Priscilla’s knot stiches, it works very well and – anyway – the technique is coeval (1924). The technique is in Priscilla#3, page 15, Diag.1-6.

I tatted it using DMC Special Dentelles size 80 cotton thread, then my graduated picots for the leaf are from 1/8” to 5/8”, gauge used horizontally (so height of  picots is half the size of the gauge).

Legenda: (added by me, but it is the same as in others Anne Orr’s publications)
ds = double stitch
p = picot
cl. = close
Con. R = connecting ring
 lr = Lr = large ring
 sr = small ring
R st. = reverse stitches, then the number of reverse stiches follow (second side of the split ring, as it is called now)


MATERIAL - Coats Mercerized Crochet No. 10. Two Shuttles.
The different parts of this pattern are designated as Center Medallion (C. M.) Stem, Leaf and Large and Small Connecting Ring. (Con R.)
Measure of ten yards of thread, wind on Shuttle No.1. Do not break thread. Measure off ten yards more, wind on Shuttle No. 2.

CENTER MEDALLION  CENTER RING - 2 ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, cl. Tie threads to take fourth picot. Do not cut threads.

Begin large ring, shuttle No. 1: 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5 ds, take work from hand.
*Shuttle No. 2.

SMALL INNER RING - Space one eighth inch, 4ds, pass shuttle No. 1 under thread on hand to make joining, p, 4ds, cl. Space one eighth inch. Join thread to center ring. R st, shuttle No. 2, 5ds. Complete ring with shuttle No. 1, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, in ordinary st. cl.  *Second l r, 5 ds, p, 5ds, R st. 5ds, join thread of shuttle to center ring.

Small inner ring like first, join thread to same picot of center ring. Complete ring like first, as indicated by *s.
Third Lr like second.
Fourth Lr like second, except after joining to center ring, complete ring in R st, 5ds, join to picot of first L r, 5ds, p, 5ds, cl. Tie thread. Ch 5ds, join thread to last p. of Lr.

STEM – Ch 5ds, space three eights inch.

LEAF – Center ring of Leaf. Shuttle No. 1, 3ds, five picots, separated by 2ds, graduating from one fourth to three fourths inches. 1ds, 5 picots, three fourths to one fourth inches, separated by 2ds, 3ds, cl. Ch 3ds, p, ch 3ds, sr, 2ds, join to last p of center ring, 1ds, p, 1ds, cl. Ch 3ds, p, 3ds, sr, 1ds, join to last r, 1ds, join to next p of center ring. Twist p, before joining, 1ds, p, 1ds, cl.
Continue until there are 5 chains and five rings, twisting picots once twice or three times, according to length from right to left on one side of leaf, and from left to right on other side. Ch 6ds, p, 6ds, for point of leaf. Continue on other side, making five rings and five chains.
Make large Con. R. in place of picot in second last chain with shuttle No. 2. (Lr. Con. R, 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, cl.)
Tie threads to center ring, with a crochet needle, make five stitches around the three threads for stem, and tie.  Continue stem, chain 5ds, join thread to first picot of next lr of center medallion. Ch 5ds, join to next p of center medallion with shuttle No. 2 sr, 4ds, join to last p of Con. R, 4ds, cl.
SECOND CON R - 4ds, p, 4ds, cl. Ch 5ds, join to next p of  L r. Make three more like first leaf, but in place of picot in second chain, make Large Con.R. Join to second small Con.R. and to Large Con. R, on first leaf. Begin last small Con.R with shuttle No. 2, 4ds, R st, shuttle No. 1, 4ds, cl.
LARGE CON. RING - 5ds, join to picot of second ch of first leaf, 5ds, p, 5ds, R st, 5ds, cl.. Tie threads.

---------- END ORIGINAL PATTERN ----------

I uploaded a diagram in Flickr. Here's the link:


Tuesday, 10 March 2020

just for one hanky

I've already written about this handbag, here:

It's charming but not strong, the bottom is closed with lock joins taking two picots together. That means it can't be used to carry heavy stuff, for example it can't be used as a cell phone holder.

I put a hanky inside, but there's still room for a pack of paper tissues.

The cord is beaded pearl tatting. The material required in the pattern was cotton size 50 and, for the central thread, cotton size 5. I used Sanbest metallic mixed polyester thread, colour number 178, 3 strands that is similar to a size 50, and for the central thread I used a black polyester, without brand or number, thicker than a size 10.

Now that is finished, I'm doubtful about the cord. I carefully followed their instructions, they wrote to tat 2 cords in pearl tatting, starting with a section 1 foot long without beads, then 1 foot long with beads, then another foot without. The 2 cords are joined in the middle beaded section. At the end, the cords is about 90 centimetres long. Don't you think is too long? How did they use to wear it? How many hankerchieves did a lady need?

Tuesday, 3 March 2020

Priscilla's bag

It is the "Bag in beaded tatting", fig.91 in Priscilla#2. I would call it beanile "ante litteram"...

All beads are in the ball thread. All chains. 
Thread is metallic mixed polyester, 3 strands, Sanbest colour number 178.

I started with what I thought was the longest manageable load of beads. I used rocailles miyuki 15/0 and haematite, I made my own mix, I think I loaded around 20gr of beads.

The pattern is 30 rounds for the body, then there's the string and the fringe. The string is beaded pearl tatting and the fringe is just long picots in chains, the pattern says 7cm but I will make mine proportioned, so I think 5 centimetres will fit. 

I climbed to subsequent rounds with split chains, a technique unknown to the 1915's tatter. Lucky me!

My first load of beads finished around round 14.

Then I loaded about another 30gr of beads.
No way they are enough though, they're going to finish soon. I think I need at least another 5 meters of beads for the fringe. In this moment I finished the beads of same colors at home, so I'm going out for "hunting". You're right, I just needed an excuse for shopping 😜.

I hope next week I'll have the finished bag and will show you. Fingers crossed!

That is the original picture in Priscilla#2, beads were white and turquoise:

Tuesday, 25 February 2020

ivy leaves with roll tatting

The pattern is from Priscilla#3, it's the Ivy Leaf Doily, defined doily but actually it's an edging. Thread is dmc ecru size 20. I tatted only a shorter sample, while in the book there are twenty repetitions.
They wrote also how to apply it to the fabric.

These are their instructions:

"With finer thread, crochet a chain all around inside working a slip stitch into the outer picots of the tatted chains. Then draw a circle on your linen and cut allowing for a 1/8 inch hem. Whip the lace to the edge of the piece taking up each stitch."

But there was the fast&modern way! In fact they continued:

"If you prefer to cover the edge with doubles, machine stitch on the penciled line, so that the linen will not stretch in the working. Cut away linen about 1/8 inch beyond stitching as you work."

Well, I'd rather not machine stitch such an edging, all that handmade work deserves handmade stitches.
It was very difficult for me tatting something acceptable, the roll tatting is fiddly, even if I carefully followed their hint, dividing the number of rolls in ten or twelve and holding them between fingers.
But, well, maybe the writer from 1924 was more modern than me!

I think I will finish the sample with fabric and hidden whip stitches, but without the crochet chain.


Tuesday, 18 February 2020

something in common

All those have something in common...
I'm quite sure that you recognize the little motif that is at page 15 of Priscilla#3.
I've already tatted it, with cotton, but this time threads are poliester metallic silver and red. Well, now that it's finished, I'm dithering, I don't know if I still like it or if I prefer the cotton version 🤔
My first version is here:

The red sampler is my first time with roll tatting.  Pattern is at page 24 of Priscilla#3. That's cotton, dmc cebelia size 10. I don't think I gave it justice. I'm going to tat it again, I'll tell you...

The work in progress on the left is a bracelet, I changed the stitches' count, but it's quite the same as the one at page 9 of Priscilla#3... I also added coloured Swarovski bicone beads and pearls.

All those pieces are my tests for something that I'd like taking to an exhibition that the local lacers' association will host in March. It will focus on lace of the first half of XXc.
I hope I'll have enough time to prepare what I've in mind, fingers crossed 🤞!

Tuesday, 11 February 2020


That's Daniela Mendola's design, she shares her pattern row by row in her blog:

Thread is Lizbeth size 80, colour number 122.

The fun is that we had to choose each round among two different versions. The version that received more votes was the one shared in her blog.

These are the links for the first 4 rounds:

ROUND 5: not yet available

(Alternative round5:

She wrote that the 5th round will be the last one. I'm looking forward to finish it, but at the same time I wish the game had continued for more rounds, I enjoyed it!


Tuesday, 4 February 2020


I've been tatting bracelets again 
Thread is Sanbest metallic polyester thread,  pattern is very simple and similar to old edgings, but I've tatted it including both double and treble tatting stitches. 


Tuesday, 28 January 2020


I'm playing with some new threads, probably you've already seen my photos in Facebook.
That is a multicoloured Sanbest thread, it looks completely different on the spool, so I'm very happy with the result.
My pattern up there mixes double stitches and treble tatting stitches and the section with trebles is a chain, with the under-over effect that makes it look like rings. I used the same effect in the snowflake with the ice-drop in the centre (here:

I'm enjoying playing with this metallic Sanbest thread, these are other things I tatted with it:
That is a module, pattern is by Eva Antonucci.

Those bracelets are just lines of split rings, beads are preloaded in both shuttles. Pattern is a repetition of split rings tatted in this way: move 5 beads in the loop around  your hand, then tat 6tds with beads in between (move from the hand), then the other side is 8ds, very small picot, 3ds. Close it, letting the two last ds and tds stitches very close to each other, then, when it's closed, the core thread is near to the very small picot. To continue, lock join the core thread to the small picot, reverse work, switch shuttles and go on with the next split ring.

If you share any of my patterns, please put a link to this blog, don't copy and past pictures. I hope you understand, thank you in advance.


Tuesday, 21 January 2020

variations on the theme

In Priscilla#3, figure 29, there's an edging that is very nice to tat.
Way back in 1924, they wrote that edgings would be perfect for pillow cases and sheets, but... in case you have a sparkling thread to use up, some edgings and trimmings are perfect for bracelets, too.
It is pretty easy: all chains. Each chain is the same number of stitches and the join is at about a third of the chain. In the "all ds" pattern, you can vary the number of ds, or you can add picots or beads, then you can change the position of the join, to obtain a wide range of similar patterns.

I tatted some variations, but I substituted double stitches with treble tatting stitches and now I wish I could try all possible combinations!

Thread is metallic Sanbest thread, they sold 3,4 and 6 strands, the thickness of the silver in the picture is 4 strands and - my opinion- it is like a Liz cotton size 20. The other two are 6 strands, that are like a cotton Cebelia size 10. In the Facebook group, friends wrote that the 6 strands thread is like a Liz metallic size 20, but I don't have any of that, to compare myself.


Tuesday, 14 January 2020

shine the light on the tds

That is a new-to-me thread, Sanbest polyester, 6 strands. It comes from China, very smooth and perfect for tatting, even for tatting the treble stitches! I found it thanks to a Facebook group, led by Eva Antonucci.

It inspired me a new design:

It shines like the gold thread, I did my best to take a good pic but it's not easy.

It started as a snowflake but ended like an ice-drop, in fact the rivoli was added at the end.

The problem with any metallic threads is that it twists a lot while tatting the trebles - a lot more than with cotton thread! -, so you need to drop the shuttle very often to let it untangled. In this pattern I did it every 3 tds.

All my patterns need to be reviewed and my files need some "spring cleaning", maybe I should commit myself seriously... This sounds like a new year resolution, but, well, keep an eye on me and in case please help this lazy girl to behave...

And now please let me shine the light on this one: the last doily designed by Sue Bradham. A pic is here:
That is a great joy for me, a technique is not useful without designers that include it in their tatting!


Tuesday, 7 January 2020

my bedroom shrank

That is the bedroom finished, with the help of "Dalì L'artista". 😍😍😍These doll room boxes are the perfect place for my tiny tatting 😍😍😍

For the bedspread, tatted some times ago, the pattern is about the same as the Mrs Odum daisy. I've shared the modified pattern here:
I started it in 2017, about the time of this post:
Wow, 2017! Time flies!

My bedroom needed some tassels, I wound some thread around a card, then blocked each one with a very little tatted ring:
They came out very realistic looking:

The flower is from a pattern by Daniela Mendola, I already shared it here:

Daniela is organising a sort of tat-along, in collaboration with the facebook group "Chiacchierino: Filo, Amore e Fantasia", for a doily's pattern that then will be shared in her blog. For each round she will propose 2 different options, that should be voted in the group. Visit her blog for more details:

The lamp, the chandelier and the floor lamp have been handmade by my aunt, with bugle beads and glass beads. I love them!
The bedroom furniture is plastic stuff, bought at the newspaper kiosk, but it looks very good. I folded some fabric for the wardrobe and changed the anonymous seat to a flowery decoration.

The frame's pattern is all rings 8-8 and chains 10-10, it is just the first round of this edging (link to my Flikr's photo):


Tuesday, 24 December 2019

xmas, angels and friends

The following xmas' scene has been made with the help of my friend "Dalì L'Artista" (the lady that decorates the shuttles that are in my photos).
She suggested how to set the scene and I found the perfect way to show my tiny tatted balls and the snowflakes tatted with the silk (

Then, in the next picture, there's "Another Christmas Angel", I'm not joking, that's its name!
Pattern is by Jennifer Williams. I tatted it because friends of the Italian group in Facebook chose it among others by J.Williams and I helped with the translation and the instructions.
Pattern is here:

It is a gift for my mum, she loves it! We put a small light under the dress. I tatted it with silver embroidery thread DMC E168 (polyester skein). For the head, I tatted one ball with white DMC Diamant D5200.
Pattern for the ball is one of mine (

There are beads, too. For sleeves and dress I used bugle beads 2mm, then for wings I used silver transparent rocailles 15/0, and for the head dress 2 rocailles 15/0 and one swarovski 2mm. I haven't stiffened it, since the polyester is firm enough and it stands alone without any wooden shape. Also, the ball (head) is empty.

About the snowflakes I've been tatting, I've exchanged some other messages with Sue Hanson. She is really helpful and a sweet lady! She found another snowflake with block tatting. She rescued it with the wayback machine:
So, I already updated the list in previous post.
Here it is:

Direct link to the pattern by Carol Rasor:

The site went down after that Ron Solomon, the owner, went tatting with the Angels and nobody else stepped in. All snowflakes are by different designers, they are all worth a try, all original and it would be a great loss for the "Tatternet" community if they will disappear. I would like to make a plea to all tatters, if someone can suggest a virtual place for saving all those patterns. I would suggest Craftree...

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and today I like leaving you with a phrase about friendship:

"...A faithful friend is a sure shelter, whoever finds one has found a rare treasure. A faithful friend is something beyond price, there is no measuring his worth. A faithful friend is the elixir of life..." (source: The Bible,Ecclesiasticus)


Tuesday, 17 December 2019


I'm learning a lot from this project. I committed myself to tat a dozen of snowflakes that contain block tatting.

Those in pictures are the last three I've tatted.

The first thing that I learnt is that very few designers have used block tatting in snowflakes, and you can count on one hand those who posted for free.

The second thing that I learnt (actually I confirmed my view) is that block tatting is an advanced technique. You always need to tweak it a bit, depending on the pattern, whether you are literally following designer's instructions or whether you want to tat it in the way 'you think' it's better for you.

This is the updated list of free online snowflakes that I've found till now:
5)pattern by Roger L. aka Freedman:
6) pattern by me, my "fior di filet" snowflake, here:
7) pattern by Jennifer Williams ("star using block tatting"):
8) pattern by Ben Fikkert:
9) pattern by Jane Eborall:
10) pattern by Jane Eborall (block centre): (***)
11) pattern by Jane Eborall: (***)

Those with the (***) are two patterns where Jane Eborall uses the "new to me" technique of block tatting done with lock stitches chains, she has a technique page here:
That is very intriguing, for sure I want to try it soon. Every Jane Eborall's pattern is an enjoyable learning experience, I'd rather say E-learning 😉!

12) pattern by Carol Rasor:


Tuesday, 10 December 2019

spotted white

These two snowflakes are designed by Jane Eborall and Sue Hanson
Thread is dmc cordonett special B5200, size 80.
White thread is beautiful for this subject, but it gets dirty very easily, even if I try to keep it clean washing my hands often.

It was my intention to tat more snowflakes with block tatting in them, at least a dozen, but this time Mr.Google gave me a poor help, bringing me back only these two.
Then I remembered that in Craftree there's a wonderful patterns' library, and I found another one, that I will tat soon.
But my goal will be hardly reached.

Luckily I received a sweet message from Sue Hanson, she is so kind, she spotted other free snowflakes' patterns with block tatting in them, that I'm going to tat soon. There aren't many snowflakes that have block tatting, some of these are in books and then not free.

This is the very short list of free online snowflakes that I have in this moment:
1)Jane Eborall's "Catherine wheel motif", pdf is in her page (among a storm of other snowflakes) here:
6) my "fior di filet" snowflake, pattern is here:

UPDATE: sorry, I forgot to add in the list that one designed by Jennifer Williams, you can find the pattern in her site, that is


Thank you very much for all your nice comments.