game over

Daniela Mendola's design, thread is Lizbeth size 80, colour number 122. For the last round I had almost finished that thread and then I tatted all rings with DMC lavender (I think it is color number 210 or 397, I lost the label).

Thanks for the fun, Daniela!
She shared her pattern row by row in her blog: https://danielamendola.blogspot.com/

Ciao,
Ninetta

Boutonniere

Pattern is called "Boutonniere", it's the number 2630-B, at page 10 of "Tatting" Clark’s O.N.T. Book #183 (1942).

Thread is Lizbeth size 80, colour number 154.
I used two shuttles.
I had troubles at the second layer, probably because my tatting is very tight. Then I solved extending all chains in second and third layers, from 8ds to 12. Another thing that I did  - and that wasn't clear to me at first - is that I joined all center rings in those layers to their preceding ring.

In the next, I copied the original pattern.
Source: https://archive.org/details/TattingBook183Coats/page/n9/mode/2up


🌸🌸🌸🌸 ORIGINAL PATTERN 🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸
Boutonniere - No. 2630-B
MATERIALS:
CLARK'S O.N.T. or J. & P. COATS BEST
SIX CORD MERCERIZED CROCHET,
size 30.
1 ball is sufficient for several boutonnieres.
Use shuttle and ball of thread.

CENTER . . . 1st rnd: R of 4 ds, p, 3 ds, 5 p's sep. by 2 ds, 3 ds, p, 4 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 1 ds, 3 p's sep. by 1 ds, 1 ds. Rw, r of 4 ds, join to adjacent p of previous r, 3 ds, 5 p's sep. by 2 ds, 3 ds, p, 4 ds, cl. Repeat from * until there are 6 r's joining last p of last r to corresponding p of 1st r, and last ch to base of 1st r. Tie and cut. 2nd rnd: Fasten threads to center p of any r. * Ch of 2 ds, 4 p's sep. by 2 ds, 2 ds, join to center p of next r. Repeat from * around. Tie and cut.

FIRST LAYER ... 1st rnd: R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of 3-p ch of 1st rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 6 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 6 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, join to corresponding p of adjacent r, 3 ds, join to center p of next ch of 1st rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Repeat from * around, joining last ch to base of 1st r. Tie and cut. 2nd rnd: R of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of any free r of previous rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. * Rw, ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of adjacent r
on same rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds. Rw, r of 3 ds, p, 3 ds, join to center p of next free r of previous rnd, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, cl. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-8 to base of 1st r. Tie and cut.

SECOND LAYER ... 1st rnd: * R of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Rw, ch of 8 ds, r of 3 ds, 3 p's sep. by 3 ds, 3 ds, cl. Ch of 8 ds. Rw. Repeat from * around until there are 12 r's joining last ch to base of 1st r [here I added: join each last picot of inner rings to last picot of previous inner ring and also last inner ring to first inner ring]. 2nd rnd: Same as 2nd rnd of 1st layer, joining to alternate r's of 1st rnd (6 points) [here I changed all chains to 12ds]

THIRD LAYER ... 1st rnd: Same as 1st ind of 2nd layer until there are 24 r's, joining last ch to base of 1st r. 2nd rnd: Same as 2nd rnd of 1st layer, joining to alternate r's of 1st rnd (12 points). Sew 2nd and 3rd layers underneath 1st layer, having points alternate.

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸 

UPDATE:  ITALIANO

Filo consigliato, cotone numero 30. Io l'ho fatto con Lizbeth 80, colore n.154.

nd= nodo doppio

p= picot 

att.= attaccare

CENTRO:

1º giro: cerchio 4nd, p, 3nd, 5 p sep. da 2nd, 3nd, p, 4nd. Arco: 1nd, p, 1nd, p, 1nd, p, 1nd.

Ripetere 6 cerchi e 6 archi e att. all'ultimo p di ogni cerchio.

2º giro: att. al centrale dei cerchi e fare arco: 2nd, 4 p sep. da 2nd, 2nd. Att. al prossimo cerchio e ripetere tutto intorno. 

Fermare e tagliare i fili.

PRIMO STRATO:

1º giro: cerchio 3nd, p, 3nd, att. al p centrale dell'arco di 3 p del CENTRO, poi 3nd, p, 3nd.

(*)Arco: 6nd, {cerchio sospeso 3nd, 3 p sep. da 3nd, 3nd}, 6nd.

Cerchio 3nd, att. al cerchio precedente, 3nd, att. al successivo arco del CENTRO, 3nd, p, 3nd.

Ripetere da (*) tutto intorno e att. ultimo e primo cerchio. Fermare e tagliare i fili.

2º giro: cerchio 3nd, p, 3nd, att. al p centrale del cerchio sospeso del 1º giro, 3nd, p, 3nd.

(**)Arco: 8nd.

Cerchio: 3nd, 3 p sep. da 3nd, 3nd.

Arco: 8nd, {cerchio sospeso 3nd, 3 p sep. da 3nd, 3nd}, 8nd.

Cerchio: 3nd, p, 3nd, att. al precedente cerchio stesso giro, 3nd, p, 3nd.

Arco: 8nd.

Cerchio: 3nd, p, 3nd, att. al p centrale del prossimo cerchio sospeso del 1º giro, 3nd, p, 3nd.

Ripetere da (**) tutto intorno e att. ultimo e primo cerchio. Att. l'ultimo arco di 8nd alla base del primo cerchio. Fermare e tagliare i fili.

SECONDO STRATO:

1º giro: (***) Cerchio 3nd, 3 p sep. da 3nd, 3nd.

Arco: 8nd, {cerchio sospeso 3nd, 3 p sep. da 3nd, 3nd}, 8nd.

Ripetere da (***) tutto intorno, in totale fare 12 cerchi att. tra loro nel primo p, e att. l'ultimo cerchio al primo, e att. l'ultimo arco di 8nd alla base del primo cerchio. Fermare e tagliare i fili.

2º giro uguale al 2º giro del PRIMO STRATO, att. un cerchio sì e uno no del 1º giro (6 cerchi) (Nota: io qui ho fatto gli archi di 12nd)

TERZO STRATO:

1º giro uguale al 1º giro del SECONDO STRATO, ma con 24 cerchi.

2º giro uguale al 2º giro del SECONDO  STRATO, att. un cerchio sì e uno no del 1º giro (12 cerchi).

Cucire SECONDO e TERZO STRATO sotto il PRIMO, con le punte sfalsate.

🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸🌸

Ciao,
Ninetta

square medallion In leaf design

Anne Orr's pattern. It is from J&P Coats Crochet, Cross Stitch & Tatting Book #14, 1923. Courtesy by Georgia Seitz, this publication is available here: http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art30942.asp.

Tatting is at pages 7 and 8.

(UPDATE: links in Georgia Seitz's site: http://www.georgiaseitz.com/bella/anneorrbook14notes.html)

Note that the term “split ring” is never mentioned, the author indicates to tat a ring, then there is the “R st” that is “take work off from hand (reverse) turn over, put work on hand”... then, with the shuttle number 2, make the other side of the ring with the reverse stitches, that are not flipped.

I ONLY CHANGED HOW THE STEM IS DONE. Where original instructions say “...with a crochet needle, make five stitches around the three threads for stem...”, I substituted crochet stitches with Priscilla’s knot stiches, it works very well and – anyway – the technique is coeval (1924). The technique is in Priscilla#3, page 15, Diag.1-6.

I tatted it using DMC Special Dentelles size 80 cotton thread, then my graduated picots for the leaf are from 1/8” to 5/8”, gauge used horizontally (so height of  picots is half the size of the gauge).

Legenda: (added by me, but it is the same as in others Anne Orr’s publications)
ds = double stitch
p = picot
cl. = close
Con. R = connecting ring
 lr = Lr = large ring
 sr = small ring
R st. = reverse stitches, then the number of reverse stiches follow (second side of the split ring, as it is called now)

--------- ORIGINAL PATTERN: ---------- DIRECTIONS FOR SQUARE MEDALLION IN LEAF DESIGN.

MATERIAL - Coats Mercerized Crochet No. 10. Two Shuttles.
The different parts of this pattern are designated as Center Medallion (C. M.) Stem, Leaf and Large and Small Connecting Ring. (Con R.)
Measure of ten yards of thread, wind on Shuttle No.1. Do not break thread. Measure off ten yards more, wind on Shuttle No. 2.

CENTER MEDALLION  CENTER RING - 2 ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, cl. Tie threads to take fourth picot. Do not cut threads.

Begin large ring, shuttle No. 1: 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5 ds, take work from hand.
*Shuttle No. 2.

SMALL INNER RING - Space one eighth inch, 4ds, pass shuttle No. 1 under thread on hand to make joining, p, 4ds, cl. Space one eighth inch. Join thread to center ring. R st, shuttle No. 2, 5ds. Complete ring with shuttle No. 1, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, in ordinary st. cl.  *Second l r, 5 ds, p, 5ds, R st. 5ds, join thread of shuttle to center ring.

Small inner ring like first, join thread to same picot of center ring. Complete ring like first, as indicated by *s.
Third Lr like second.
Fourth Lr like second, except after joining to center ring, complete ring in R st, 5ds, join to picot of first L r, 5ds, p, 5ds, cl. Tie thread. Ch 5ds, join thread to last p. of Lr.

STEM – Ch 5ds, space three eights inch.

LEAF – Center ring of Leaf. Shuttle No. 1, 3ds, five picots, separated by 2ds, graduating from one fourth to three fourths inches. 1ds, 5 picots, three fourths to one fourth inches, separated by 2ds, 3ds, cl. Ch 3ds, p, ch 3ds, sr, 2ds, join to last p of center ring, 1ds, p, 1ds, cl. Ch 3ds, p, 3ds, sr, 1ds, join to last r, 1ds, join to next p of center ring. Twist p, before joining, 1ds, p, 1ds, cl.
Continue until there are 5 chains and five rings, twisting picots once twice or three times, according to length from right to left on one side of leaf, and from left to right on other side. Ch 6ds, p, 6ds, for point of leaf. Continue on other side, making five rings and five chains.
Make large Con. R. in place of picot in second last chain with shuttle No. 2. (Lr. Con. R, 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, p, 5ds, cl.)
Tie threads to center ring, with a crochet needle, make five stitches around the three threads for stem, and tie.  Continue stem, chain 5ds, join thread to first picot of next lr of center medallion. Ch 5ds, join to next p of center medallion with shuttle No. 2 sr, 4ds, join to last p of Con. R, 4ds, cl.
SECOND CON R - 4ds, p, 4ds, cl. Ch 5ds, join to next p of  L r. Make three more like first leaf, but in place of picot in second chain, make Large Con.R. Join to second small Con.R. and to Large Con. R, on first leaf. Begin last small Con.R with shuttle No. 2, 4ds, R st, shuttle No. 1, 4ds, cl.
LARGE CON. RING - 5ds, join to picot of second ch of first leaf, 5ds, p, 5ds, R st, 5ds, cl.. Tie threads.

---------- END ORIGINAL PATTERN ----------

I uploaded a diagram in Flickr. Here's the link: https://flic.kr/p/2iF7KhX
(UPDATE: Please, see also https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2020/05/mock-and-split-but-still-genuine.html)

Ciao,
Ninetta

UPDATE:
Aurora Lozada found another way to tat the centre:
 https://tathelper.blogspot.com/2020/04/an-onion-ring-challenge-i-havent-tatted.html)

just for one hanky

I've already written about this handbag, here:
https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2020/03/priscillas-bag.html

It's charming but not strong, the bottom is closed with lock joins taking two picots together. That means it can't be used to carry heavy stuff, for example it can't be used as a cell phone holder.

I put a hanky inside, but there's still room for a pack of paper tissues.

The cord is beaded pearl tatting. The material required in the pattern was cotton size 50 and, for the central thread, cotton size 5. I used Sanbest metallic mixed polyester thread, colour number 178, 3 strands that is similar to a size 50, and for the central thread I used a black polyester, without brand or number, thicker than a size 10.

Now that is finished, I'm doubtful about the cord. I carefully followed their instructions, they wrote to tat 2 cords in pearl tatting, starting with a section 1 foot long without beads, then 1 foot long with beads, then another foot without. The 2 cords are joined in the middle beaded section. At the end, the cords is about 90 centimetres long. Don't you think is too long? How did they use to wear it? How many hankerchieves did a lady need?

Ciao,
Ninetta

Priscilla's bag

It is the "Bag in beaded tatting", fig.91 in Priscilla#2. I would call it beanile "ante litteram"...

All beads are in the ball thread. All chains. 

Thread is metallic mixed polyester, 3 strands, Sanbest colour number 178.

I started with what I thought was the longest manageable load of beads. I used rocailles miyuki 15/0 and haematite, I made my own mix, I think I loaded around 20gr of beads.

The pattern is 30 rounds for the body, then there's the string and the fringe. The string is beaded pearl tatting and the fringe is just long picots in chains, the pattern says 7cm but I will make mine proportioned, so I think 5 centimetres will fit. 

I climbed to subsequent rounds with split chains, a technique unknown to the 1915's tatter. Lucky me!

My first load of beads finished around round 14.

Then I loaded about another 30gr of beads.

No way they are enough though, they're going to finish soon. I think I need at least another 5 meters of beads for the fringe. In this moment I finished the beads of same colors at home, so I'm going out for "hunting". You're right, I just needed an excuse for shopping 😜.

I hope next week I'll have the finished bag and will show you. Fingers crossed!

That is the original picture in Priscilla#2, beads were white and turquoise:

Ciao,

Ninetta.